"sony1492" (sony1492)
10/31/2020 at 21:48 • Filed to: None | 0 | 30 |
T he garage has become a workshop with regular very loud noise from cutting and shaping metal. Its fairly muted outside the house and No neighbors have complained but I’d like to get ahead of that before it’s a problem.
The walls are 24' long and 8' tall, I know nothing about building but it looks ready to be sheetrocked with 2x4's diagonals top and bottom in between the verticals that make up the wall.(as in something to screw into top and bottom as well as closing the wall)
After a bit of looking it seems sheetrock dosent isolate noise well, what sort of insulation could I use?
Another consideration is fire resistance, as lots of sparks go flying around.
onlytwowheels
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:06 | 2 |
Aremmes
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:08 | 2 |
Fiberglass or rock wool insulation batting will do a good job blocking noise. Pack that stuff in between the studs before hanging the drywall.
VincentMalamute-Kim
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:09 | 6 |
Don’t know how expensive you want to get but it’s a multi-step process
:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2020/01/27/soundproofing-a-successful-hybrid-approach
Article refers to a quiet room but I’d think sound
doesn’t care which direction it’s traveling.
Thinsulate works very well for noise insulation with secondary benefits of temperature insulation. It’s used by higher end auto manufacturers including Honda I think.
I seem to remember hanging sheets of
Mass Loaded Vinyl as a step as well.
sony1492
> onlytwowheels
10/31/2020 at 22:10 | 0 |
Nearest dealer is 100 miles away, can this sort of thing be ordered from a building s upply Co?
sony1492
> VincentMalamute-Kim
10/31/2020 at 22:15 | 0 |
Thats pretty in depth for my taste, of course I want to do it right but also, I’m cheap and short for time.
Maxima Speed
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:16 | 3 |
Ive always been of the mind that if i get hurt i want the people in the house to hear my cries for help while im pinned under a car.
SBA Thanks You For All The Fish
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:23 | 2 |
It IS Halloween, so I guess I have to point out that nothing BAD has ever happened in a noise-insulated garage. Ever.
onlytwowheels
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:24 | 1 |
Lowes should have it.
https://www.quietrock.com/dealer-locator
VincentMalamute-Kim
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:24 | 3 |
I think those standoffs are huge in reducing sound transmission. Maybe just that. Maybe
that
combined with the QuietRock posted.
If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:28 | 1 |
If the garage isn’t already insulated, just throw up some if the pink s tuff before sheetrocking.
gettingoldercarguy
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:29 | 0 |
http://www.dynamat.com/architectural-home/
MM54
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:34 | 3 |
Normal fiberglass insulation plus drywall (may need to be 5/8 or thicker depending on code for garage) should be decent; otherwise there are special options available (see other commenters).
(my one neighbor can definitely hear my air compressor running but has never said anything; though as a crotchety old man at heart, I’m not really running it when people would be trying to sleep or anything)
sony1492
> onlytwowheels
10/31/2020 at 22:34 | 0 |
That being the nearest at 96 miles
sony1492
> MM54
10/31/2020 at 22:36 | 3 |
Hammering metal and the air compressor are the 2 loudest things.
What I'm gathering is special drywall and normal fiberglass insulation will do the trick
Wacko
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:37 | 2 |
I would add to the other suggestions to insulate the wall with rock wool stone wool insulation. It helps for the sound and heat/cool at the same time.
onlytwowheels
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:37 | 0 |
I guess you can c heck with your local building supply, or contact the company.
GLiddy
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:40 | 2 |
I’d think about doing something to that bare metal garage door. Then I’d work on the floor and lastly the ceiling. I’ll wager that less sound is getting through the walls than you think. This source below indicates more sound gets out through a slab than a wall.
https://www.snoringsource.com/how-to-soundproof-a-garage-door/
sony1492
> gettingoldercarguy
10/31/2020 at 22:41 | 0 |
None in 500 miles
MM54
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 22:51 | 3 |
And insulate the garage door if it isn’t already.
That said, I’ve occasionally taken a sawhorse, grinder,
and extension
cord outside to cut steel explicitly so I don’t have to clean up
. I’m sure the neighbors love it, but again it’s only ever
midday and they’ve never complained.
sony1492
> GLiddy
10/31/2020 at 22:51 | 0 |
Ive got ideas for the door and roof vents. Mostly involving moving blankets
sony1492
> MM54
10/31/2020 at 22:53 | 2 |
I ain’t moneybags, hell its not even my house.
Monkey B
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 23:02 | 2 |
stagger stud, mass loaded vinyl, chip board or plywood then drywall with green glue underneath on any adjoining walls to the house will completely separate the structures and render the garage silent.
notsomethingstructural
> sony1492
10/31/2020 at 23:17 | 2 |
Get some mineral wool / rock wool insulation, if it’s still too loud get resilient channels (25 gauge sheet metal with a 45 degree bend you attach to the stud and Sheetrock) and 5/8 Sheetrock and you’ll be fine. Beyond that you’re looking at basically foam “ egg carton” acoustic tile and that stuff is like $10 a square foot. Alternately build a 2-1/2” stud wall floor to ceiling with no insulation and just screw Sheetrock right to that - but don’t fasten it to the outside walls.
Slabs transmit vibratory noise , not ambient noise, but they do reflect basically all sound to other surfaces without dampening. Wouldn’t worry about that but I would deal with the garage door.
BaconSandwich is tasty.
> MM54
10/31/2020 at 23:18 | 1 |
I occasionally take my table saw or angle grinder into the back alley. Usually during daylight hours, though.
The Snowman
> sony1492
11/01/2020 at 00:03 | 0 |
If you rent why spend the money if the neighbors aren't complaining? Totally worth it if you are going to be next to these folks for 20 years but don't give your landlord free home upgrades...
sony1492
> The Snowman
11/01/2020 at 00:27 | 1 |
Landlord is my great aunt who bought this as a second house for family to live in. She’s older and if she goes I’ll end up splitting the mortgage with my mother.
In short, there is no rent, don’t see myself living here 20 years but probably more then a couple unless Ca’s housing market miraculously and catastrophically tanks
sn4cktimes
> sony1492
11/01/2020 at 00:59 | 2 |
I just did my garage this year. I still have the old wooden doors. The doors are the now the single biggest noise leak whereas before the walls transmitted sound like paper. I have 2x4’s with standard fibreglass and used OSB instead of drywall. OSB works for sound a tiny bit better, but not appreciably more. Just getting the walls and the ceiling insulated and closed in made a massive difference. The ceiling is 2x6-thickness insulation. I think RockWool makes a more sound deadening version of fibreglass batts. I would imagine they cost more. Like others have mentioned those steel doors are gonna be the biggest prob. You can get insulation kits for steel doors. That and weather stripping will help. Any air gap is a sound gap.
Boom Bap
> Monkey B
11/01/2020 at 02:18 | 1 |
Yep, that’s all good stuff. I’ve used several off those elements effectively, in my garage studio.
glemon
> sony1492
11/01/2020 at 11:11 | 0 |
I know this probably isn’t a likely scenario-but we moved into an older house with plaster walls and gypsum boards behind (like drywall, but thicker, used in place of wood lathe under the plaster). The house is eerily quiet on the inside compared to the 90s built house we moved from.
TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!
> sony1492
11/01/2020 at 16:04 | 1 |
Rockwool is the key, it’s fire proof and sound isolating. Capped with a normal type - X drywall (fire resistant), or left exposed , it’s a good choice.